new in: vionnet a/w 10

See the style.com review of another new addition for A/W 10, recently revived Parisian label Vionnet. Notice the emphasis on evening and the deep, rich colors and fabrics. Perfect alongside a wardrobe of Nina Ricci, Lanvin and Giambattista Valli or an unexpected bit of drama for the regular Joseph customer.

More on the full restoration of Vionnet below:

Milan Fashion Week: Matteo Marzotto to relaunch Parisian label Vionnet

Milanese luxury goods tycoon Matteo Marzotto is set to relaunch Parisian label, Vionnet...

A Milanese luxury goods tycoon, Matteo Marzotto, has begun moves to restore the famous Parisian label, Vionnet, to the fashion spotlight.

Marzotto, who is also the president of Enit, the Italian State Tourist Board, and is a former president of Valentino, has bought the historical brand and plans to relaunch it in Milan in June.

Apart from a brief revival in 2006 - with the Greek-British designer, Sophia Kokosalaki, at the helm - the name of Vionnet has languished in fashion's store-cupboard for nearly 70 years.

The Vionnet maison was launched in Paris in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, a fashion revolutionary, who reviled corsetry and anything which restricted the free movement of a woman's body. She was inspired by the draperies on Greek statues and the dances of Isadora Duncan, and developed a technique of draping and cutting which caused her to be named "The Queen of the Bias Cut" - a technique which continues to inform the work of many leading designers today, most notably John Galliano.

Madame Vionnet was also responsible for introducing dresses made from a single length of cloth, without fastenings or buttons; hooded tunics; halter-necks and the handkerchief hem.

At the height of her fame, she employed over 1,000 seamstresses, was the first to export ready-to-wear to the United States, and dressed silver screen icons such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn. Her house closed at the beginning of the Second World War.

Despite her status as a pioneer of 20th century fashion, she once declared herself "an enemy of fashion" and abhorred the obsession with seasonal change.

"I am convinced there is always room for projects that have at their core originality, energy and passion", Marzotto said.

"With Vionnet I would like to bring back to life an idea of fashion that is contemporary without forgetting its history; reinvigorating the extraordinary and innovative elegance that marked Madeleine Vionnet's work."

Vionnet will have headquarters in Milan, and its ready-to-wear line will include accessories.

The collection will be designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga, formerly a womenswear designer at Prada for 13 years, who also worked, prior to that, with the Milanese innovator, Romeo Gigli.

new in: the row a/w 10

See the style.com review of our new American line the Row for A/W 10. Notice the focus on minimalism and monochrome layering, centered around different textures and materials. Sheer long sleeve shirts and shiny leather gloves are worn under short thick tops, strapless boned bodices on top of tanks and tees and tough snake print against soft silk.

Style with similar pieces from Joseph, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Stella McCartney or contrast with more feminine lines such as Lanvin and Nina Ricci.

Hilary Alexander, fashion director of the Telegraph discusses the collection below. Find the full article here.

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen , the 23-year-old twins of fashion, are, despite a net worth estimated at $100 million by Forbes Magazine, making them the 11th richest women in entertainment, renowned for their boho image, often called the "ash-can" look or "homeless" chic.

So it comes as something of a surprise to find their aurtumn/winter 2010/2011 collection is a study in understated minimalism, albeit with an overtone of the "Twilight" goth.

The collection, just 19 immaculate pieces, was small, but perfectly-formed, and shown on the bare, wooden boards of an atmospheric, first floor, in an old warehouse, decorated only with an antique chandelier and an arrangement of white flowers.

The young British star, Carey Mulligan, who is a fan of The Row, was a surprise front row guest.

The collection, inspired by the German artist, Beatrix Ost, was made almost entirely in black silk, leather and cashmere, leavened with dark navy python skin, cream, and the occasional, narrow brown belt, the collection focused on ankle-length, flowing skirts and easy, straight-leg trousers, sometimes knotted at the waist, in black silk crepe de chine, paired with straight-cut tops in the same fabric.

Under-layers, in sheer black silk chiffon, were visible beneath the three-quarter sleeves and at the waist.

Loose, ankle-length dresses were equally simple, but given waist emphasis with a taut, boned, strapless corset, cinched-in on top. Wrap-coats, in black cashmere, were collarless and devoid of any extraneous detail which would divert the eye from the casual luxury of the cut and the fabric, and were fastened with a slim, brown, leather belt, tied, not buckled.

The most curious feature was the fact all 19 models wore identical, thonged, flat, leather sandals. It was snowing outside and this was, after all, a winter collection! Where were the shoes, the boots?

"Let's just say delivery problems," a laughing Ashley Olsen confessed backstage.

The twins - virtually identical, although they prefer to be called an "individual pair" - have been a fixture of American popular culture since they were babies of six months, and began appearing in the television series, Full House.

They began merchandising their image, with a company called Dualstar, in 1993, and their brand has been sold in more than 3,000 stores in the US and over 5,000 worldwide. They are hugely popular with the pre-teen and teen market.

The Row, which they launched quietly several years ago , is named for their fascination with Savile Row and their quest to achieve the most perfect, simplistic, effortless fit.

It is their bid to tap into a more sophisticated customer. They are obviously succeeding; Harvey Nichols, which launched the collection in London, has had an extraordinary success, particularly with statement pieces such as their stretch leather leggings, which became a cult.

Averyl Oates, Harvey Nichols' fashion buying director, describes The Row as "understated but powerful fashion. These are investment pieces and there is a lot of personal involvement by the girls."